The Dolphin, SE26… a striking hedged retreat, worth coming to

After a mix-up with a booking at a nearby restaurant, I was left adrift in the newly affluent streets of Sydenham.

A pub beckoned. Not knowing the area, I made the choice based on name.

The Dolphin is the name of one of my favourite pubs in Hastings.

The vicinity of the sea is apparently nothing to do with the name; rather, it is because the dolphin is kind and hospitable to travellers.

Indeed, there are four Dolphins in London.

This pub has an impressive frontage, a white mock-Tudor style built in the 1930s, and the proud dolphin signage standing out like a sigil from Game of Thrones.

It was reopened in 2006 after a significant refurbishment, so has a modern, airy feel, but still retains a classic look.

I immediately liked it when I walked in. It has an impressive, rather large bar centred in an open-plan space, which used to be separate bars.

An attractive, cosy fireplace sits to one side. I sat down at a large wooden table suited for large parties. Menus were immediately sent over.

This is quite obviously a pub, but very much a food-led experience (although there’s a quiz on Wednesday). As I was meeting family, it suited my needs, but I’m not sure I would go in for a solitary pint.

The food is decent and wholesome, but quite simple, majoring on pizzas.

There’s a few other choices, and a specials board; my friend was quite surprised to find his sausage turned up with some weird lentils rather than the expected mash. But the grub was enjoyable.

Apparently, the dolphin has two stomachs, which I could have done with by the time I finished.

The choice of drinks was reasonable, too, and it was good to see the local Brockley Brewery showcased.

I understand they have improved their beer offer over the past few years, and indeed there was enough to keep this discerning and increasingly hard-to-please beer drinker happy.

It is a pleasant pub, if a little formal.

The windows created an open, airy, light space in the day, but it also makes it very dark in the evening; cosy, some might say, but perhaps a bit too dark.

I wished I got there earlier to see the magnificent garden in the sun.

Continuing with the mock Tudor theme, it is a large, striking hedged retreat, worth coming to for this alone.

A fortuitous accident that my restaurant booking fell through, then.

The Dolphin 121 Sydenham Road, SE26 5HB

 

The Dolphin Picture: Bill Lacy