A chilly night but an enjoyable time at the County Arms, Wandsworth

BY BILL LACY

I first came across this pub seven years ago when I was checking out a nearby venue for my wedding (the magnificent Royal Victoria Patriotic Building) and used to look forward two a pint or three after concluding my wedding business.

So I came to know and love this pub, but I never until recently enjoyed its garden.

Last summer some friends and I retreated to this pub after an eye-wateringly expensive meal somewhere nearby.

I was looking forward to a few pints of Young’s London Special to help me get over the lunch bill.

The only available space was in the garden area, hitherto unknown to me, where we were carefully shepherded to comply with the new Covid restrictions.

It was not the best night to be outside and everybody fastened the top buttons on their winter coats, every so often glancing at a member of staff in the hope that she would catch your eye and upon seeing our frosty heads usher us back into the warm interior.

Eventually a wonderful table was vacated and we had an enjoyable evening.

I got my London Special, brought over to us via the miracle of an app.

I thought about the garden as we approach the day when pubs finally open again on Monday, albeit outside only.

I have missed pubs so much that I will take an outside table even if it means shivering while I libate.

It has been difficult enough to even find an average place. Naturally bookings have gone through the roof.

People are desperate to enjoy the cheer and the beer of a good pub in the company of people beyond those with whom they live.

The Government deliberately chose a Monday to reopen the pubs, understandably fearing the descent of the masses if they opened at a weekend.

Even so, pubs will likely enjoy the busiest Monday they have perhaps ever had.

I am a man who likes to hang around the bar in a slightly eccentric way, perhaps harbouring a curious and unreasonable prejudice towards beer gardens, but like everybody I will be forced to enjoy the pleasures of the outdoors.

Not only for the part-timers and the lemonade-drinkers but all of us.

The beer garden at The County Arms styles itself as the best in Wandsworth and it is that kind of beer garden that is almost too perfect, too manicured, with several hutches covered ivy to create intimate dining spaces.

The garden also has heaters, in my opinion up there with the greatest ever inventions, although they were inexplicably missing on the shivering night of my last visit.

Booking is essential. The County Arms is a truly beautiful pub that has overlooked Wandsworth Common since 1852.

It is available for private hire and even weddings, for which it is popular.

It has a smart and contemporary interior that nevertheless retains the atmosphere of the good old British pub, serving high-quality fayre.

Even the bar snacks are superb with the two-foot-long sausage roll famous. It was the first thing I saw when I walked in.

The name of the pub apparently comes from the building’s old position at the intersection of the London and Surrey border.

Also of note is that it is probably the nearest pub to the largest prison in the country (Wandsworth Prison sits opposite).

This is a superb pub that would justify any place in a list of South London’s best beer gardens or indeed pubs.

The County Arms 345 Trinity Road, Wandsworth, SW18 3SH.