Food & Drink: Megan’s, Clapham SW4

BY PALOMA LACY

Walking into Megan’s requires you to have one of two items tucked under your arm – a baby or a laptop – or at least it seemed that way.

Teaming with people last Friday lunchtime, no mean feat on a stretch of street that is door-to-door cafes and restaurants, there was barely a seat left in the house.

In fact, I was surprised at the number of new eateries which had sprung up since my last visit to the area, just a
year previously.

This all-day dining restaurant takes you through from breakfast, or the ever more popular brunch, through to lunch and swiftly on to dinner.

I snuck in for coffee and a morning meeting and liked it so much that I decided to stay and stave off my hunger.

The relaxed atmosphere encourages babies, doggie companions – the chef made his way out with treats for one
pampered pooch – and freelancers working hard to call it home for as long they need to.

This Clapham Old Town outpost is one of a six-strong South London chain, going to prove that no two chains are made equal.

Megan’s is a cracking example of how to build a chain correctly, providing a familiar and welcoming experience across London.

Lunchtime is either a chance to sample the deli counter – with the most tantalising salads and healthy dishes to choose from, or go a la carte.

All-day brunch is served until 4.30pm, and of course poached eggs and avocado orders were still flying out of the kitchen at 1pm.

Will London’s appetite for the dish ever cease, I wonder?  There are no signs of it happening any time soon.

Megan’s handles brunch a little differently, offering a Turkish twist on eggs as a breakfast staple.

Shakshouka – spiced tomato baked eggs, with seven-seeded organic sourdough (£9.50), Shakshoumi, served with grilled halloumi (£12.50), and Shakshorizo, served with sujuk or ‘Turkish chorizo’ elevate the humble egg.

Don’t worry, you can still order royale, Benedict and its other family members, but nice to have a choice of something else for a change.

Long past breakfast time, I was on the lookout for a satisfying dish that would carry me through until dinner, without leaving me sleepy for the afternoon, so Posh Open Kebab it was.

Spicy chicken – though it wasn’t really very spicy – served with a peanut dukkah sauce, atop flatbread, piled high with harissa hummus, pickled veg, aubergine and tomato ‘bayildi’ and pickled red cabbage.

A knockout lunch dish that was fresh and exciting and wonderfully filling.

The menu is rather on the small side, but luckily for me, it had just what I fancied eating.

Aside from my order and several brunch options, there are some nutritious and wholesome bowls, but that’s it.

Fast forward to the evening menu and the dishes on offer multiply tenfold, again with inspiration from the Eastern Mediterranean and Middle East.

There are lots of sharing boards and mezze or bigger plates, like chicken shwarma and a mixed grill.

In my experience, all-day dining menus often miss the point, getting it right at certain meal sittings but not all.
Megan’s is the exception that beats the rule, with a menu so on point as to cater for the diner, no matter the time of day.

Megan’s 55-57 The Pavement, Clapham, SW4 0JQ