Fashion that hangs from a thread

The British Fashion industry has a tapestry of history, but one thread has long been missing, writes Claudia Lee.

Later this year, Somerset House in The Strand will host an exhibition to explore the untold stories of black British fashion.

The influence of black creativity on British fashion is often referenced without acknowledgement, The Missing Thread aims to redress this.

Set against a backdrop of politics and culture the show takes a closer look at black style and creativity in fashion, music, photography and art.

Starting in the 1970s, The Missing Thread, follows the ever-changing landscape of black British culture and the contribution it has made to Britain’s fashion history all the way up to today.

Curated by the Black Oriented Legacy Development Agency (BOLD), the exhibition is split between four distinct themes, Home, Tailoring, Performance and Nightlife.

Home opens the show, taking a look at the intercontinental roots of black British style as well as the safety black Britons found in family and community.

Artists celebrate ideas of Home through design and drawings while photography challenges the theme by documenting the 1985 Handsworth Riots, a conflict sparked by tension between local black and Asian communities with the police.

The second part of the exhibition is Tailoring.

Not just the undeniable expertise and craft but also the statements of defiance in black British style statements.

A red dress worn by Princess Diana is on display, created by the couture designer Bruce Oldfield.

The elegance of the dress is contrasted against tailored puffer jackets and England football kits.

None of the pieces are displayed in isolation.

Stylized portraits of gay black men in 1980s South London by Rotimi Fani-Kayode offer an alternative vision of black masculinity, removed from the sharp suit edges.

Performance delves into the performance of everyday life, not just those in the public eye.

Black people navigating discrimination in Britain were often being observed for their style, hair, attitude and language, which often led to performances of self preservation and rebellion.

Next up, Nightlife and the exhibition will transform into its own club. Sort of.

Photographs of the elaborate outfits of the Dancehall scene, recordings of the 1990s rave-influence and styles of the attendees at an Afro Hair and Beauty Show will create an show space filled with the sounds of black music icons across genres from Sade to Grace Jones.

To conclude the experience there is a staging of pieces from one of Britain’s most influential designers, the late Joe Casely-Hayford.

This is the first major staging of Mr Casely-Hayford’s work.

The designer passed away in 2019.

Despite being held in quiet esteem within the fashion world, Mr Casely-Hayford’s work was never met with the same recognition as his white peers.

Over a four decade-long career, the designer revolutionized menswear.

He attracted a cult following for his subversive Savile Row styles with fans including The Clash, U2 and Lou Reed.

The exhibition’s curators have worked closely with Mr Casely-Hayford’s family to produce a show stopping finale to the exhibition, filled with unseen studio material and items from the designer’s most influential collections.

The exhibition opens on September 21 at Somerset House, The Strand and will run until January 7, 2024.

Tickets: www.somersethouse.org.uk/whats-on/the-missing-thread

 

Pictured: The Entrance to Somerset House: Google Street View/ Joe Casely-Hayford, 1987 Picture: Kevin Davies