What do Rihanna, Elton, Whitney, and others Cher?
The showgirls, the powerhouses, the sequins and the glamour. You can’t help but smile at this summer exhibition, writes Claudia Lee.
DIVA has opened at the Victoria and Albert (V&A) museum in Cromwell Road, South Kensington.
The term, which originated as the latin words for goddess, referred to opera’s leading ladies, or prima donnas.
Their success offered them an agency that few women had at the time.
But, the understanding of a diva has become twisted by modern perceptions of women into a self-important person, usually a woman, who is demanding and difficult.
Famous fashion looks of the likes of Billie Holiday, Rihanna, Tina Turner, Cher, Elton John and many many more are on display alongside edited clips of earlier stars in action bringing the garments, magazine covers and posters exhibited around them to life.
Rooms are filled with 60 ensembles and 250 objects drawn from the V&A collection and loans from across the world, spanning fashion, photography, design, costumes, music, and live performance.
And there’s more, a sonic headset experience matches each room with songs as well as an architectural take-over designed by BAFTA-winning video
designer Tal Rosner.
The space has been transformed into a kind of theatre showing a drama of sequined headdresses and feather boas.
DIVA celebrates the powerful and personal stories of some of the best-known divas, from opera goddesses and silent movie stars to sirens of the big screen and today’s global megastars.
But the exhibition is also interested in the darker side of the diva.
Behind the glitter is a murky undertone of the all-encompassing fame that has the ability to destroy which the Amy Winehouses and Marilyn
Monroes are a stark reminder of.
It also shows just how a desire for female agency is inevitably read as her being difficult.
Some of the material in the exhibition has never been seen before including five of Rihanna’s most iconic looks.
On loan to the exhibition from the artist herself, the objects track Rihanna’s style evolution as an artist and celebrate her ability to transform her own personal image, shaping style and popular culture along the way.
Kate Bailey, curator of DIVA, said: “At the heart of this exhibition is a story of iconic performers who with creativity, courage and ambition have challenged the status quo and used their voice and their art to redefine and reclaim the diva.
“Divas don’t just create art, they are culture- makers, entrepreneurs and activists.
“We are delighted to showcase a range of objects that reflect how Rihanna has used her authentic voice to make a difference – from Bajan ambassador to style icon to music pioneer.”
DIVA will be shown at the V&A until April 7, 2024.
Tickets: www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/diva
Picture: Whitney Houston performing at Wembley Arena, May 5, 1988 Picture: David Corio