Babur Indian Restaurant… celebrated in the Michelin Guide 15 years in a row

When the owner of Babur told me he’d been in business for 37 years, I wasn’t surprised.

Emdad Rahman knows what the diner wants, which is why Babur is thriving today, celebrating mention in the Michelin Guide for 15 years in a row.

A visit to Babur sets all the senses alight.

Upon arrival, you can’t help but be bowled over by the Bengal tiger on the roof, keeping watch over the threshold.

Make your way through the door and expect to be hit by fragrant aromas wafting through from the kitchen.

Greeted warmly and seated quickly, my companion and I sat and took in the ambience.

It’s clear that here, diners, once captured, are treated as friends.

The table next to us played host to a couple who dine at Babur at least weekly, and often more.

Babur’s interior is mellow, with subdued lighting and exposed brickwork – the feeling of arriving somewhere special is pretty immediate.

The staff are friendly and get proceedings moving with an amuse bouche from chef – finely chopped beetroot, onion, mango sauce, and something else that I didn’t quite catch, atop a crostini, while we ordered a drink.

The in-house mixologist has come up with a corker of a cocktail list and Watermelon and Pomegranate Margarita made for an incredibly memorable start.

Buffalo Smoke – bourbon-based – arrived on a tray covered in a bed of peppercorns.

We snacked on poppadoms, dipped into home-made chutney.

Garlic and mustard topped the list of four, but ginger and tamarind left us feeling virtuous in our consumptions of anti-oxidents.

Continuing its journey across the 37 states of India to mark the anniversary of the same number, it celebrates territories from Ladakh to Tripura in this autumn specials menu.

The dishes on offer here aren’t run of the mill curry house classics. Although Babura To Go – just down the road – fills this gap.

Crab Dokhla caught my eye as my starter of choice. I was pleased when, later on, chef explained these gram flour cakes are as common place a snack as samosa in Gujurat.

I can quite see why, hand-picked spiced crab meat, garlic butter, tomato chutney and mint sauce.

We feasted from the main menu for the rest of our meal.

Goat Shoulder Tikka, cumin puff stole the show, and I was disappointed it wasn’t my order, but thankfully received permission to share.

Black cardamom, green tomato and aubergine mash. Beautifully cooked to tender perfection, long marination and slow cooking resulted in a 10/10 dish.

I was torn by the mains but settled upon Chicken Chettinad because I was looking for a dish that could have the heat (chilli, that is) turned up.

Madras level heat duly agreed, I was pleased with my lot. It arrived with a dosa pancake cone aloft.

Chef later mentioned this adornment is an original idea he created that’s been replicated by restaurants throughout London.

The pairing of a glass of Baglio Gibellina U Passimiento 2020, a boldly fruity Sicilian red, was spot on for a dish heavy in black pepper.

Venison Hunter Curry, with pulao rice, slow cooked with sweet potato, dark spices and tamarind, was the ultimate winter warmer, washed down with a White Rhino IPA.

Sides of garlicky spinach, dahl makhni and laccha paratha completed a meal that left us both with a glow and feeling of contentment.

We didn’t feel able to have dessert but were easily persuaded by our neighbouring diner to try home-made kulfi.

It proved to be a wise move.

Same time, next week?

 

Babur Restaurant 119 Brockley Rise, Forest Hill SE23 1JP

 

Picture: Wonderful food at Babur / Picture Babur