Brighton… a haven for foodies
BY PALOMA LACY
Brighton is a haven for foodies.
Even regular visitors will notice new places popping up between visits. I checked out the best ones so you know where to head before you get there.
Meanwhile Scrambled eggs are something of a culinary yard stick, in my humble opinion.
Too often it’s not very good, but if the restaurant gets it right, it’s a thing of beauty.
It’s a morning favourite but a satisfying dish eaten at any time of day.
Meanwhile, the café located in My Hotel, got it spot on.
The chef’s light touch was evident in what would be best described as folded eggs.
This was thoroughly enjoyed, alongside a mound of locally smoked salmon, served on sourdough.
Another stand out dish was Merguez sausages, grilled broccolini, spiced labneh, poached egg and focaccia.
This is living proof that this place is, while keeping traditional fare alive, embracing North African influences.
Who doesn’t love the piquancy of a lamb sausage?
Meanwhile is an example of a classic Brighton café – the city is blessed with so many that put high quality ingredients at the forefront of everything they do.
17 Jubilee Street, BN1 1GE.
Opened at the end of last year, Tutto is causing a stir with Brighton residents and out of town visitors.
It’s easy to understand the name when you see the menu because you will literally want to eat ‘All’ of it on first reading. This is Italian fayre as you don’t often see it – it’s authentic.
We began with market fresh calamari, crispy fried and crumbed sardines and bright green olives. For main course, spaghetti with hand-picked crab and chilli, and lamb shank on a bed of polenta duly provided a feast for the senses.
There wasn’t much room for dessert after all that so we settled, upon the advice of our waitress, for a dessert cocktail – a Tiramisu Martini.
A two course Sunday lunch will set you back £28 and three courses, £32.
20 – 22 Marlborough Place, BN1 1UB.
One of Brighton’s most significant foodies suggested a trip to see Chef Sabu Joseph at Cardamom Kitchen.
If I’d realised he was one of the former chefs at a favourite Brighton restaurant, The Chilli Pickle, I would have been beating down his door earlier in the day.
Sabu has brought the city the food of his Keralan homeland and it’s among some of the best food I’ve had in a very long time.
Rich and velvety, spicy prawn curry would have been a meal enough on its own, and seemed impossible to improve on, until soft, fluffy and somewhat crispy pieces of paratha were dipped in it.
There are many other dishes worth noting, including superbly fresh pani puree – the ultimate in Indian street food – with its fresh flavours of pomegranate and tamarind and crisp finish.
The biggest surprise was Kerala Fried Chicken or KFC as Sabu likes to call it.
No grease, just crispy fried chicken, seasoned with the spices of his region.
It was so good that a second portion was ordered.
Sabu’s pub pop up – at Easy Tiger @ The Hampton – is certainly a lively affair but plans are afoot for him to open his own place soon.
57 Upper North Street, BN1 3FH.
Pictures: Paloma Lacy