In Horto… delicious Italian food
In advance of my visit to In Horto, the restaurant’s name kept whirring through my mind.
I pondered its meaning and felt sure I’d heard of it somewhere before.
Walking through the door, it came to me as I was swept back in time very many years to GCSE Latin.
Had someone said: “Caecillius est in horto,” I would have got it straight away.
In Horto is a lovely Italian-inspired restaurant specialising in wood-fired oven cooking.
I imagined every dish would come out with a smoky taste to it – they didn’t.
Though a more natural way of cooking certainly appeals – quick cooking that probably right up there when it comes to economy-saving methods.
In Horto sits snuggly in the middle of Southwark Quarter, just behind Flat Iron Square.
I remain convinced that both are a mystery to many and as such, you’ll have your pick of restaurants when you visit.
Please go – think the food quality of Borough Market but without the fuss of the crowds.
It seemed like London Bridge’s best kept secret last week but I guess people are still in hibernation mode.
Amiable front of house, Fred, talked us through the menu, passionately backing a number of plates but there was little cheerleading needed.
The menu sings its own song, loudly and clearly.
A friend and I arrived not quite hungry so I feared having to dig deeply.
Fred asked if we wanted to order freshly baked foccacia.
The answer couldn’t possibly have been, “no,” with accompaniments of nduja, and burnt onion butters.
The combination was a knockout and a bread and butter lunch would have been perfectly acceptable.
This was the day when every, “no,” turned into a “yes.” And how pleased I am that I took Fred’s words so seriously.
Confit potatoes with chive aioli and Parmesan is a bucket list dish but once tried, will become the ultimate treat dish that I shall endeavour to devour as often as reasonably seemly.
Potato sliced the way gangsters treat garlic in the movies – with a razor blade – it was that thin and cooked to pure succulence. I was in love.
We also nibbled on white crab meat, charred baby gem and silky brown crab mayonnaise –the prefect lunchtime small plate. Burrata, fig & cherry molasses provided the fresh and light hit.
We tried not to be tempted by dessert but were swayed by a slither of tiramisu, served with a large spoon, directly from the bowl.
The lightest version I’ve tried for some while, probably due to the inclusion of Marsala wine.
In Horto is a dream of a lunch place and I suspect I’ll be lured back for dinner before too long.
Fred, you’re incorrigible, and I love you for it.
It’s been a hard, long winter so far so any excuse to look to summer is most welcome.
The nation’s finest food and drink festival is back and coming to a park near you.
Wimbledon Park plays host from May 12 and 13, with hosts including famous TV chefs, Ainsley Harriott, Simon Rimmer and Anna Haugh.
The first wave of participant pubs and restaurants has been announced – The Hand and Flowers, Hoppers, Tapas Brindisa, Cubitt House Pubs and Atul Kochhar Restaurants are among them.
Tickets go on sale today with no ticket booking fees in February.
Go to www.pubintheparkuk.com
Brand new ticket packages will provide good times at even better prices.
The London All Access pass as been introduced, a triple weekend ticket that grants access to every session on the three location London leg of the tour – Dulwich, Chiswick and Wimbledon.
Music will be provided by Bananarama, Judge Jules, The Feeling, Clean Bandit and Gabrielle.
The festival runs from May until September 2023 with locations all over the country.