Food & DrinkLifestyle

Relax with a pint whilst watching the world go by at The Market Porter

BY BILL LACY

There are a few pubs I seem to know quite well but have never actually been to. I used to enjoy watching out for The Market Porter on the train, and passed it several times while in Borough Market.

I also happened to know it opened at 6am for the market porters, hence the name, a curiosity of some market pubs.

I’ve never had a pint at 6am except in an airport, but I knew someone who once got up early just to sup with the market boys on his way to work, just so he said he had done it, so it obviously has appeal.

Borough Market is wonderful and vibrant, but it can also get incredibly busy.

One of 12 Market Tavern pubs across London, the Market Porter always seems as if it is overflowing with customers – market workers and customers, tourists and a lot of people in suits – clearly a popular venue for after-work drinks.

I found time to go in an early afternoon midweek zombie spot, but it was still really busy, and the atmosphere was cracking.

A friend of mine told me a particular favourite old ale was on cask, so I took a pit stop between a Tube journey.

The ale had run out (it probably ran out in an hour) but the choice of beers was still superb, with sometimes up to 12 real ales on (there’s a board by the door).

All the beers I tried were superbly kept. As stuffy a traditionalist as me could only find the card-only policy the only complaint.

This is a traditional Victorian pub, with an impressive frontage and a simple wooden interior with a classic bar that snakes around the room.

A charming dining room is upstairs and there’s a misleadingly large amount of room round the back near the stairs to the toilet.

A couple of fat cats were busy tucking into some great looking business-expensed lunches.

While it was busy everywhere, most people tend to stand in the outdoor space which looks onto Borough Market.

There is something therapeutic about having a pint and watching the world go by.

Usually you’ll just be staring at a boring bit of road and a KFC, but here you have the vibrant noise and colour of the market, almost beckoning you in.

A must-visit on any trip to Borough Market.

The Market Porter 9 Stoney Street SE1 9AA


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