Tandoor Chophouse deserves every single positive word of mouth uttered

By Paloma Lacy

It’s boom time for Indian restaurants in London, with every other invite I receive for a newplace leaning towards subcontinental Asian cuisine.

As much as I adore new arrivals, it’s important to pay our respects to those that have and continue to go the distance.

It was with this in mind that I visited Tandoor Chophouse. I’ve been meaning to pop my head in since it opened five years ago, and this was my third attempt to get there.

I mentioned where I was going to a few people and was met with resounding positivity, and perhaps a smidgen of smugness.

One called it her: “Go to, to wow out-of-town visitors.” Another said: “It’s fab and we’ve been several times.” Someone else compounded my jealousy: “Oh, you haven’t been. I am surprised.” Alright, alright, I’m going.

The menu makes sense upon discovering that this is a combination of North Indian cuisine and a classic British chophouse. And of course delicately spiced and well marinated meats and naan, cooked in a tandoor, lies and the very heart of it.

Some carefully crafted cocktails started dinner off rather nicely, with Darjeeling Negroni and Tandoor Hazelnut Espresso Martini setting the tone for what was to come.

It’s all about sharing dishes here and my friend and I began with bhaji onion rings with smoked aubergine – which was nothing short of sensational.

Just the food to nibble at over a few drinks and most surprising of all was the £5.50 price point, unheard of in such a lovely setting in Central London.

Given its location right near Trafalgar Square, this really is the centre of town.

Seekh kebab roll, green chutney & pomegranate, again received double points, for taste and price. Finely minced lamb cooked over charcoal, I loved the freshness that both its accompaniments brought.

A generous portion, delicately placed on soft naan bread – we stopped here on the starters. There is no rice on the menu, which is a good thing, sparing us of bloating.

Amritsari crispy lamb chops would have been ordered just on the name alone – doesn’t it conjure beautiful images of Indian palaces. Added to which, our host waxed lyrical of its popularity and didn’t want to feel left out. We were sold, and lamb is never an easy sell for me.

The result: by far the best lamb chops I’ve had for a very long time. The dish met all of my narrow specifications – tender, pink, but not too pink, massaged lovingly with spices for at least a day prior to cooking and any visible fab must be crispy.

The chef created a dish that was on point. The other signature dish outstripped anything that’s gone before it – house tandoor chicken. Juicy meat that pulls easily, nicely spiced with a decent kick.

Tandoori dishes set you back around £15 but this is cheap for the location and a bargain considering the high quality meat used.

We chose green chilli, garlic and mature cheddar naan, which I was worried might be too much when simplicity might otherwise have done the trick, but I was wrong. This pimped up naan was pure indulgence and totally worth it.

Our chosen side dishes were more of a bone of contention between me and my fellow diner.

Black dahl is always a hit and remained so here but green saag while popular with me, the other side of the table felt it lacked texture. I went, I saw and I loved it. I have happily joined the band of people quick to sing its praises.

Tandoor Chophouse deserves every single positive word of mouth uttered on its behalf.

I’ve already decided what I’m going back for, The Mighty Thali. This £60 feast feeds three and includes dishes like keema masala, black pepper chicken tikka, lasooni paneer and nimbu masala fries. Only available on Sundays.

Tandoor Chophouse, 8 Adelaide St, London WC2N 4HZ.